It’s odd. Even though fish plays such a big part on the dining areas of every country in the sub-continent, you need the patience of a seasoned fisherman to find an Indian restaurant in the UK that serves even a passably palpable fish curry.

So when Trishna opened in London, a glamorous little sister to the legendary eaterie in Mumbai, we queued up to get a seat: finally, we’d get a bite of fish caught from a sea of tamarind and baked under a chapati sun. Only, the Indian food analogies end pretty much here.

It takes a few minutes to work out whether you’re in the wrong venue: the waiting staff are mostly European, the word curry doesn’t seem to appear anywhere on the menu. But once you settle in, you realise this is precisely what’s happening among Mumbai’s highest echelon. We’ve had the Sylheti man’s take on Indian food for three decades now – it’s time to savour the cuisine the elite Bollywood way.

Masterchef Karam Sethi creates dishes according to what they call ‘coastal cooking’, and the results are nothing short of works of art. The menu invites you to try one dish each from its four sections: pakoras, charcoal grills, vegetarian and Trishna dishes such as native lobster with black pepper and garlic, and coconut and turmeric-simmered mussels.

It isn’t cheap, but the next time a date asks you where you want to go for a dinner and you’re in the mood to feel and feast like a celebrity, simply say: Trishna.