A pigmented complexion is every bit as ageing as wrinkles, according to recent research. This makes it a crucial skincare concern for anyone wanting more youthful looking skin.
Discoloured skin doesn’t reflect light as well and gives the face a dull and lacklustre appearance. Studies have found that 43 per cent of women in the UK are concerned about uneven skin tone and 45 per cent of non-sufferers expect to experience it in the future.
Hyperpigmentation is the clinical name for sun spots, freckles, liver spots and brown marks that manifest on our skin. Sadly, us Asians are more susceptible to the condition, which is caused by excess melanin production.
‘Melanin is produced by our melanocytes [pigment building cells] in the skin,’ explains cosmetic physician Dr Raj Acquilla. ‘When the melanocytes are stimulated by the sun, inflammation or hormones, melanin is laid down on the skin, which produces hyperpigmentation. Those with darker skins have a higher density of melanocytes and are at greater risk.’

WHAT CAUSES PIGMENTATION
In order to treat pigmentation, it is important to identify its cause. Brown spots can form for a number of reasons.
Sun spots are the most common. These can be identified as small clusters of discolouration found dotted over the face, neck, hands and arms. They form as a result of prolonged UV exposure, which activates the melanocytes, to churn out more melanin resulting in dark circular marks.
This type of pigmentation can take several decades to surface, so if you spent time in the sun in the 1970s and 1980s without adequate protection, you may be paying the price now.
Brown blotches can also develop after a trauma to the skin – such as picking at spots or a straightening iron burn. The official name for this is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Unfortunately, Asian skin tones are more prone to this type of pigmentation, as our melanocytes are more active.
Larger pools of pigmentation, which is often symmetrical and found around the mouth, cheeks and forehead is known as melasma. If you are going through a pregnancy or taking birth control pills, the body’s oestrogen levels can fluctuate. This can stimulate the melanocyte cells to go into overdrive and form these stubborn splotches. Whatever the cause – if you’re a sufferer of pigmentation, you’ll know that these pesky patches are difficult to camouflage with make-up, but luckily, there is plenty that can be done to tackle it.

HOW TO TREAT PIGMENTATION SUN SPOTS
Many Asians make the mistake of thinking they are immune to UV damage, just because their skin doesn’t burn or turn red during sun exposure – but they couldn’t be more wrong. Those brown patches that form after long spells of sun exposure, or the tiny freckles that appear on the nose and cheeks are a sign of sun damage.
Even short spells of unprotected sun exposure can make pigmentation worse, so invest in a broad-spectrum sunscreen, with added UVA and UVB protection and use it every single day. This will not only stop existing marks from getting worse, but will also prevent new ones from forming.
A mass of new skincare designed to lighten and fade pigment irregularities is now available. Look out for ingredients that are favoured by dermatologists: these include azelaic acid, niacinamide and arbutin – all of which can suppress melanin production – but don’t expect instant results as it can take up to four months to notice visible fading.
Steer clear of unfamiliar brands stocked in your local Asian high street, containing intensive bleaching agents such as mercury or hydroquinone, both of which halt the production of melanin. These ingredients are banned in the UK for over-the-counter preparations due to their potential toxicity.
However, experts consider hydroquinone to be the benchmark prescription product for tackling pigmentation. If your marks are stubborn, see a dermatologist who may prescribe hydroquinone after advising on proper usage.
If used incorrectly, ingredients such as these can have severe side effects and in many cases can make pigmentation worse.
Invest in one of the new wave of products containing proven skin lighteners. Clinique carried out studies to compare its Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector (£37.50) to hydroquinone. Trials proved it to be comparable to hydroquinone for fading pigmentation.
Dermatologists at Stanford University have developed Lumixyl (£78, wigmoremedical.com), a peptide-packed solution designed to minimise discoloration and reduces tyrosinase – the enzyme that initiates the overproduction of melanin.
Nia 24 Rapid Exfoliating Serum (£60; spacenk.co.uk) contains prickly pear and willowbark to gently dissolve tired cells and pro niacin to fade hyperpigmentation.
Home-use gadgets are also becoming more powerful. Enter the new Philips Reaura (£799, 0800 3316015) – a device that shoots out thousands of microscopic laser beams to stimulate cell renewal and collagen production, helping to fade sun spots on the face, arms and chest.
Many dermatologists advise those with darker skins to steer clear of aggressive laser treatments, as the heat can cause PIH. The makers of the new Clear + Brilliant (from £200, clearandbrilliant.com) say that this gentle laser is compatible with darker skin tones, and is also ideal for younger sufferers aged 25-45.
The 20-minute process involves a hand-piece, which emits laser energy being glided over the face, where it creates millions of microscopic treatment zones in the skin, to reveal healthy tissue.
A chemical peel, which involves the application of various powerful exfoliation-inducing agents, may be suitable for those who don’t respond well to lasers. The Obagi Blue Peel (from £550, harleymedical.co.uk) is highly regarded by dermatologists and is said to be suitable for all skin colours. The application of a potent trichlororoacetic chemical acid solution dissolves the skin’s pigmented top layer. The old skin peels off and a fresh layer appears during the course of a week.

POST-INFLAMATORY HYPERPIGMENTATION
Injured skin, be it from a scratch, burn or popped spot is highly sensitive and therefore very difficult to treat. Do not pick at spots and scars, as this will only aggravate the problem by activating the melanocytes to form more pigment.
As the depth of the pigmentation and skin types vary, a consultation with a dermatologist should be your first course of action.
‘Most PIH will settle naturally within three to six months without intervention,’ says Dr Acquilla. ‘Marks lasting longer than this may be permanent unless treated with prescription creams like hydroquinone or tretinoin, which help to control pigmentation by accelerating skin cell turnover.’
 Clinic-based intense pulsed light treatments (IPL), whereby wavelengths of light target and destroy the pigment may be recommended, but must be approached with caution since the heat can trigger the formation of more pigment in darker skins.
If you decide to go for such a treatment, pick an experienced dermatologist, who carries out a patch test and thorough consultation before starting.

MELASMA
‘Melasma is best treated with prescription creams, as lasers can worsen the condition due to the inflammation they can cause,’ advises Dr Acquilla.
The new Epionce Melano Corrective System (from £160, woodfordmedical.com) has been popular with melasma sufferers. The clinic-based, skin-brightening process starts with the application of a mask, pumped with pigmentation-fading ingredients like bark and mulberry extract. You’re also given accompanying home-use products to boost the treatment’s efficacy.
The Skinceuticals Pigment Regulator (£100 per facial; skinceuticals.co.uk) claims to be as effective as medical standard treatments for hyperpigmentation. The 45-minute treatment involves the use of potent ingredients that work to remove melanin clusters on the skin’s surface and protect it from future discolouration.

All of the recommended treatments leave the skin susceptible to UV damage, so daily application of a high SPF cream is crucial.
(Hair & Make-up: Kaniz Ali)